Chemical Exfoliation: AHAs VS BHAs
AHAs or BHAs? Which is a better chemical exfoliant?
When it comes to achieving smooth, glowing skin, exfoliation is key—and chemical exfoliants have become the go-to for many skincare enthusiasts. Two of the most popular types of chemical exfoliants are Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs). While they may seem similar at first glance, they work in different ways and are best suited for different skin concerns. So how do you know which one is right for you?
Let’s break down the differences—and help you decide which might be better for your skincare routine.
What Are AHAs?
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) are water-soluble acids derived from sugary fruits, milk, or other natural sources. They work primarily on the surface of the skin, dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells so they can be sloughed off more easily.
Common Types of AHAs:
Glycolic Acid (from sugarcane)
Lactic Acid (from milk)
Mandelic Acid (from bitter almonds)
Citric Acid (from citrus fruits)
Benefits of AHAs:
Improve skin texture and tone
Fade dark spots and hyperpigmentation
Reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
Boost hydration (some AHAs, like lactic acid, are also humectants)
Best for:
Dry, dull, or sun-damaged skin
Uneven skin tone
Aging skin
What Are BHAs?
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) are oil-soluble, which allows them to penetrate deeper into the pores. They exfoliate both the surface of the skin and inside the pores, making them especially effective for oily and acne-prone skin types.
The Most Common BHA:
Salicylic Acid (derived from willow bark)
Benefits of BHAs:
Deeply cleans out clogged pores
Reduces blackheads and breakouts
Calms inflammation and redness
Helps control excess oil production
Best for:
Oily or combination skin
Acne and blackheads
Enlarged or congested pores
AHAs vs. BHAs: Which One Is Better?
The short answer is: it depends on your skin type and concerns.
Dry or Flaky Skin - AHA
Acne-Prone Skin - BHA
Hyperpigmentation or Sun Damage - AHA
Oily/Congested Skin - BHA
Sensitive Skin - Mandelic Acid (AHA) or low concentration BHA
Both types of exfoliants can be powerful and effective, and some products even combine AHAs and BHAs to target multiple concerns at once. However, more isn’t always better—over-exfoliating can lead to irritation, sensitivity, and even breakouts.
Tips for Using AHAs or BHAs Safely
Start slow: Introduce chemical exfoliants gradually (1-3 times per week).
Use sunscreen: AHAs can increase sun sensitivity, so SPF is a must.
Don’t mix too much: Avoid using multiple exfoliating products at the same time.
Patch test: Especially if you have sensitive or reactive skin.
Final Thoughts
AHAs and BHAs both offer significant benefits, but they serve different purposes. If you’re battling dry skin and dullness, AHAs might be your best friend. If your main concern is acne or oily skin, BHAs are likely the better choice. And if you have a bit of both? A balanced routine with both—used wisely—can give you the best of both worlds.
The key is listening to your skin and choosing the right type and concentration for your needs. Healthy, glowing skin is about consistency, not intensity.
